Pantai Siung, Surga Pemanjat Tebing

Posted by on Thursday, March 21, 2013


Pantai Siung, Surga Pemanjat Tebing

Selamat datang di Daerah Istimewa Jogjakarta, satu-satunya wilayah di Indonesia yang masih menganut sistem kerajaan. Tak seperti kultur adat yang berkembang lambat, tradisi panjat tebing Indonesia justru berevolusi dengan pesat di Jogjakarta. Inilah potret sebenarnya tentang panjat tebing alam Indonesia.



Sekitar dua jam dari jantung kota Jogjakarta, terdapat Pantai Siung venue boulder dan panjat tebing paling terkenal di Indonesia. Diklaim memiliki 250 jalur pemanjatan, 45 route sport climbing secara resmi dibuka sejak tahun 2000. Terdapat sebelas sektor yang diberi nama secara alfabet dengan grade bervarasi mulai dari 5.9 - 5.13b. Serta ketinggian antara 6 - 120 meter dengan struktur batuan berupa limestone.

Takeuchi Masanobu merupakan pemanjat tebing asal Jepang yang berhasil berhasil mencatat first ascent dan menancapkan bolt pertama di kawasan Pantai siung. Ia juga yang memulai tradisi panjat tebing di kawasan ini sehingga Pantai Siung menjadi lokasi panjat tebing paling populer di Indonesia dengan pemanjat mencapai 600 orang setiap tahunnya. Di wilayah ini juga pernah digelar ASIAN Climber Gathering 2005 yang diikuti 250 pemanjat dari 6 negara.

Pantai siung berada di sebelah selatan Pulau Jawa dengan struktur batuan berupa limestone dan sebagian di antaranya berujung tajam. Angin bergaram yang bersifat korosive membuat bolt cepat berkarat. Selama kurun waktu 2000 hingga 2012, telah dilakukan empat kali penggantian bolt walaupun hingga saat ini sebagian bolt telah kembali berkarat.

"Enchen" Solichin, Pacaran (5.10b)
 Pantai Siung merupakan surga bagi para pemanjat hebat, tetapi tidak bagi mereka yang mendambakan kenyamanan. Walau desa terdekat hanya berjarak kurang dari sepuluh kilometer dan dihuni 120 jiwa, tetapi suplai listrik dan jaringan network tidak tersedia di sini. Bahkan sumber air bersih terdekat berjarak 600 meter dari lokasi desa.

Hanya ada satu jalan di kawasan Pantai Siung, itu sebabnya pemanjat akan datang dan pergi melalui jalan yang sama. Memasuki area boulder venue Pantai Siung, pemanjat akan disambut dengan rute Welcome to siung (5.10-5 bolts), yaitu rute pertama yang dibuat Takeuchi Masanobu.

Tebing-tebing di sektor A hingga sektor G merupakan tebing pendek dengan ketinggian antara 6 sampai 20 meter. Tetapi pada sektor ini memiliki rute pemanjatan dengan grade yang cukup tinggi. Didominasi dengan pinch and round holds, dan pijakan edging.
Salah satu rute paling susah adalah Rute Arek Soro yang berada di sektor B (5.13b - 6 bolts+anchor) dengan ketinggian sekitar 18 meter. Hampir semua pegangan pada route ini berupa pinch holds dan pocket yang hanya cukup untuk 3 jari. Crux tersulit pada route ini berada di antara hanger 5 dan hanger 6.
Yusak Yulius Arek Soro (5.13b)
Selain itu, rute tersulit lainnya adalah route "Who Are U" (5.11d - 5 bolts) yang berada pada sektor D. Pada dua hanger pertama terdapat layback holds yang cukup menguras tenaga karena berada di ujung tebing. Setelah traverse pada hanger ketiga, crux pada hanger keempat dan kelima berupa open grip dan pinch dan mengharuskan pemanjat menggunakan teknik three point contact.
"Enchen" Solichin, "Who Are U" (5.11d)
Pada sektor F, mulai didominasi dengan tebing tinggi namun dengan route yang cenderung mudah. Sebutlah route "Kuda Laut" (5.11 - 9 bolts dan anchor) yang sangat fenomenal. Mendapat nama route Kuda Laut karena pada puncak rute terdapat batu yang berbentuk kuda laut. Tebing ini cukup fenomenal karena grades menengah yang sesuai dengan pemanjat pemula. Satu-satunya crux tersulit adalah pada hanger ketiga berupa undercut holds dan pada hanger terakhir yang merngharuskan smearing.
Temmy Telilassa Kuda Laut (5.11)

Selain dikenal dengan keindahan pantainya yang fenomenal, keunikan Pantai Siung juga dikenal dengan karakteristik ombaknya yang mengalami pasang-surut setiap hari. Hal ini juga berpengaruh pada karakteristik boulder yang berada di antara route F - K. Boulder ini hanya dapat dipanjat sekitar pukul 10 am hingga 1 pm. Selain jam tersebut, lantai boulder akan tergenang air laut. Terdapat banyak route tanpa nama pada Tebing Siung. Di seafloor area ini terdapat salah satu rute dengan grade 5.10 dengan crux berupa full overhang dan pocket holds. Boulder lain adalah berada di Gua Siung, memiliki grade 5.11 berupa roof dengan pinch dan pocket holds.
"enchen" Solichin, Gua Siung (5.11)

Di sektor H - J terdapat banyak tebing dengan route yang dikhususkan untuk pemanjatan artificial. Ketinggiannya bervariasi antara 30 - 80 meter. Sedangkan beberapa hanger yang terdapat pada sektor ini telah banyak berkarat akibat angin laut yang bergaram.

Jalan berakhir di sektor K yang merupakan tebing tertinggi di Pantai Siung dengan ketinggian mencapai 120 meter. Jalur tertinggi di sektor K adalah Vertical Orgasm (5.11 - 8 bolts). Tetapi hampir kesemua bolt di sektor ini tidak layak digunakan.


Five Siung's "Must Do" Route

1. Kuda Laut (5.11/9 bolts)
80 meters dinding vertical dengan posisi di samping laut. Tingkat kesuksesan pemanjatan adalah 25% setelah melewati undercut pada hanger ketiga dan 90% pada hanger terakhir.

2. Arek Soro (5.13b/6 bolts+anchor)
5 derajat 20 meters overhang. uji kekuatan tanganmu dengan pinch holds dan open hands holds dan kekuatan edging kakimu.

3. Who Are U (5.11d/5 bolts)
15 meter dinding vertical yang merupakan salah satu route terberat di Tebing Siung selain Arek Soro. Kekuatanmu akan terkuras selama 3 hanger pertama karena laybacking. dan akan semakin terkuras karena slab holds. satu-satunya bonus untukmu adalah pinch holds yang berada sebelum hanger terakhir.

4. Pacaran (5.9a/4 bolts)
Means Making Love in Bahasa, lokasi ini memang sangat indah dengan latar belakang berupa Blok F dan pantai.

5. Vertical Orgasm (5.11/8 bolts)
Memanjat tebing tertinggi setinggi 120 meter membuatmu benar-benar orgasm. Berada di puncak tertinggi di Pantai Siung akan membuatmu merasa seperti master of the universe. Berhati-hati dengan bolts yang mulai berkarat. Ada baiknya anda membawa artifisial equipment tambahan. Terutama phyton.


A Tradition about Friction

Welcome to Jogjakarta Special Region, the one and only province in Indonesia that still conserve kingdom culture. Unlike the traditional culture that grows slowly, rock climbing culture evolves rapidly in Jogjakarta. Here's a real portrait about Indonesian Rock Climbing.

Around two hours from the heart of Jogjakarta, there is Siung Beach, the most famous natural boulder and climbing venue in Indonesia. Claimed to have two hundred and fifty routes, forty five sport climbing routes were officially opened for climbers since 2000. There are eleven sectors (named alphabetically) with various grade from 5.9 to 5.13b, from six meters to one hundred and twenty meters height of limestone cliffs.

A Japanese climber, Takeuchi Masanobu, successfully managed to do the first ascent and put the first bolt in Siung Beach area. He also started the rock climbing tradition that Siung Beach become the most phenomenal rock climbing area in Indonesia with more than 600 climbers visiting this area each year. The ASIAN Climber Gathering 2005, participated by two hundred and fifty climbers from six countries, was held here.

Siung Beach is located in southern side of Java Island and some of the cliffs are formed as sharp edge limestones. Corrosive salty wind make bolts corroded faster. Between the year of 2000 to 2012 each routes was rebolted four times and some of the routes become corroded again.

Siung Beach is a paradise for great climbers and adventurers, but not for comfort-minded people. Although the nearest village located less than ten kilometers with one hundred and twenty occupants, but no electricity supplies and network area services. Even the nearest water resource is six hundred meters from the beach area.

There is only one path to surround the sectors, it means all climbers will come and go through the same path. The very first route in Siung Beach is "Welcome to Siung" route (5.10/5 bolts), which is 10 meters height route firstly made by Takeuchi Masanobu.

The cliffs in Sector A to Sector G are around six to twenty meters height cliffs. However, the sectors provide hi-grade routes that dominated by pinch and round holds with edging steps.

One of the hardest routes is "Arek Soro" route in Sector B (5.13b/6 bolts+anchor). It is 18 meters height with almost all of the holds are pinch holds and 3 fingers pocket holds. The hardest crux is betwen fifth hanger and sixth hanger.

Another hardest route is "Who Are U" route (5.11d/5 bolts) in Sector D. The first three hangers force us to do energy-draining laybacking at the edge of the Sector D cliff. After traverse on the third hanger, the crux between fourth and fifth hanger are open grip holds and pinch holds. Climbers need to do three point contact technique to finish the route.

High cliffs with relatively low-grade routes begins on Sector F. The phenomenal "Kuda Laut" route (5.11/9 bolts+anchor) standing in Sector F, was named "Kuda Laut" or Seahorse in Bahasa, become famous because there is a seahorse shaped stone at the top of the route. The route is also suitable for the non-pro climber who want to try high cliff with easy crux. The hardest crux in the route is undercut holds at the third and the last hanger.

Besides known beause of the beautiful beach view, Siung Beach known for the unique wave characteristic as well, with ebb and flow everyday. It also influences the boulder characteristic between Sector F to Sector K. The boulder in the seafloor bellow Sector F is only able to be climbed between 10 am to 1 pm. In addition to these hours, the seafloor is flooded by the sea water. There are lot of anonymous routes here. The most known route in the seafloor boulder have 5.10 grade. It's a full overhang boulder with pocket holds. Another boulder route is in the small Siung Cave with 5.11 grade. It provides roof with pinch and pocket holds.

Some cliffs between Sector H to Sector J devoted for artifficial climbing, are around thirty to eighty meters height. Lots of hangers in these sectors are corroded by the salty wind.

The path ends on the Sector K which is the highest cliff in Siung Beach. The highest route in this Sector is "Vertical Orgasm" route (5.11/8 bolts). It's about one hundred and twenty meters height, but some of the hangers are not proper to use.


Five Siung's "Must Do" Route

1. Kuda Laut (5.11/9 bolts)
Eighty meters vertical wall located beside the sea. Climbing success rates is 25% after you passed the undercut at the third hanger and it will increase to 90% at the last hanger.

2. Arek Soro (5.13b/6 bolts+anchor)
Twenty meters and five degree overhang. Test your endurance and strength with pinch holds and round holds for your hands and edging steps for your feet.

3. Who Are U (5.11d/5 bolts)
Fifteen meters vertical wall, which is another hardest route. Your energy will drain at the first three hangers because of laybacking at the cliff edge. And become even more drained because of the slab holds. The only bonus for you is pinch hold before the top.

4. Pacaran (5.9a/4 bolts)
Means "Courtship" in Bahasa, the route has beautiful beach view and eighty meters Block F cliff as background.

5. Vertical Orgasm (5.11/8 bolts)
Climbing the highest cliff around one hundred and twenty meters will give you a real orgasm. Once you reach the top, you will feel like the master of the universe. You'd better bring artifficial equipment because of the corroded hanger. Especially phyton.

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